Ganmars, Fulnets and Green Sea-Going Chickens

In the early summer of 2018, my good friend Malcolm and I were lucky enough to be selected to take part in a NTS work party to carry out maintenance and conservation work on St Kilda.

The work party consisted of a team leader, a cook, and ten volunteers, and we would stay on the main island of Hirta for two weeks, living in the cottages once inhabited by the St Kildan people prior to their evacuation to the mainland in 1930.

Cottages Nos 4, 3, 2 and 1

To visit the archipelago of St Kilda is an amazing experience. But to stay there for two weeks takes it to whole new level. The remoteness and wildness of the islands got under our skin and in a very short space of time we became quite possessive of our new home. When visitors arrived on day trips to the island, it felt like they were intruders, and we were grateful come evening time when they left and we once again had the place to ourselves.

Village Bay on Hirta

Staying in the islander’s old stone cottages in Village Bay had the effect of immersing us in the amazing history of St Kilda. It gave us just a sense of what life might have been like to live there permanently. We were all completely smitten with the place.

Between painting, cleaning out field drains, beach cleaning, general maintenance and repairs, we had time to explore the spectacular topography of the island. Hirta sports the highest sea cliffs in the UK and, surrounded as it is by the Atlantic Ocean, it is home to enormous colonies of sea birds.

Sea cliffs on Hirta (for scale there are 3 people near the skyline)

Everyone on the work party had understandably come armed with cameras to record our time on the island. With this in mind we set ourselves that challenge of recreating an image of three islanders returning from the cliffs with a catch of fulmars. Sea birds formed a significant part of the islanders’ diet and the way they harvested the fulmars, gannets and puffins from the precipitous cliffs of the archipelago became the stuff of legend.

My friend Malcolm concocted a plan of how and where this photograph could be taken. He would need three of the men to play the part of the islanders and three of the ladies to play the part of the sea birds.

Taking our places for the photo shoot

The final image (Copyright Malcolm Lind)

I tracked Malcolm down to Cottage No5 which is used as the tool store and workshop. I interrupted his hard work and asked him to explained how he planned turn the ladies into Fulnets and Ganmars, two now extinct species of sea bird that were apparently related to Green Sea Chickens, once found on St Kilda.

 

Green Sea-Going Chickens arriving at St Kilda

The following link will explain all you need to know about Ganmars, Fulnets and Green Sea-Going Chickens. It will also illustrate the strange effects living on an isolated island out in the Atlantic Ocean can have on your mind.

Ganmars, Fulnets and Green Sea-Going Chickens

The story of The Spring o’ Twenty Eight

The Spring o’ Twenty Eight

Having made a good job of the lambing at the Dubh Choirein Farm at the tender age of fourteen, my father was sent on another lambing expedition the following year, in the spring of 1928.

At the foot of Glen Lochay, just out side Killin, a crofter called Tom Proctor broke his leg in a motor bike accident. Tom ran a small croft called Moirlanich and was a long standing friend of my grandfather, Peter McNab. With the lambing season just about to start, a broken leg was a major problem for him. So, Tom sent a message to Glen Artney asking Peter if he thought his 15 year old son, Pat, could help him out by doing the lambing for him. Having been given the responsibility of his first lambing season at the age of 14, Pat had proved his worth and was considered more than capable of the task.

Tom Proctor

As the crow flies it is only 14 miles from the head of Glen Artney to Moirlanich. The road journey however is over 30 miles long and at that time there was no public transport. So young Pat set out on his adventure, carrying his bag, walking the 8 miles down the twisting glen road to the village of Comrie. From there he got a lift with a bakers van, along the shores of Loch Earn, up through Glen Ogle to Lix Toll near Killin. This left him with a four and a half mile stroll, over the Falls o’ Dochart, through the village of Killin, and on to the small croft that would become his home for the next three months.

The Falls o’ Dochart, Killin

The croft house at Moirlanich still stands and is open to the public since being bought by the National Trust for Scotland (in 1992) as an excellent example of a cruck frame longhouse. In 1928 the croft was not only home to Tom, but also to his older aunt and two uncles.

Moirlanich

At the southern end of the building was the ‘Best Room’ which contained the two box beds where the uncles slept. It was a room that was forbidden territory for Dad. Through a small lobby lay the kitchen. An impressive hingin’ lum jutted out into the room over the open fire. Legs of ham hung on hooks from the dark rafters while hens scratched around for scraps on the kitchen floor. In one corner was another box bed where Tom’s aunt slept. A tiny box room with two bunk beds lead off from the kitchen and this is where Dad shared with the injured Tom.

The box bed in the kitchen

Next to the aunt’s box bed in the kitchen, a door leads through into the byre. As well as housing some of the croft’s livestock, the byre doubled up as the only toilet. As Dad put it, “You just went ben intae the byre and squatted by the coo’s”

When I heard my father use that phrase I instinctively knew there was a song in this story.

Over the years I have written many songs based on my own experience of growing up on the farm, but this song was going to be very much about Dad. So I sat him down, poured him a dram,  and got him to elaborate on life at Moirlanich in the Spring o’ 28. Although I wrote the song, I used Dad’s words and expressions wherever possible and in a very short period of time I had the bones of several verses and the all important chorus whirring around in my head.

A Harry Sutton Palmer painting of Moirlanich and Glen Lochay

One feature of the story was a young Clydesdale mare which Dad took a great shine to. He had always enjoyed working with horses and despite his youth, he was a very experienced horseman. He had been involved in ‘breaking’ the wild ponies gathered in from the hills of Glen Artney before they were sent of by train from Comrie Station to all the main shooting estates around Scotland.

As well as working at the lambing he did the ploughing, working with that bonnie mare. He also got into trouble from Tom for being soft and giving her too much feed. One Sunday Tom and his family left Dad in charge while they went to church. Young Pat took the opportunity to try hitching the mare to a cart. This was a new experience for the big horse but she responded well as Pat walked her up the narrow glen road towards Daldravaig. To minimise the noise from the cart and reduce the risk of spooking the mare, he kept one wheel of the cart on the grass verge. The horse took to towing the cart as if she had been doing it all her days. So at Daldravaig Pat turned her around and climbed up onto the cart. Feeling pleased with himself he enjoyed the trip back down the glen to Moirlanich. But as he arrived back at the croft he was met with a furious Tom Proctor. It may have been Sunday, and Tom may have just returned from church, but Dad recalled getting the biggest swearing of his entire stay. The horse could have reacted badly, bolted, damaged the cart or broken a leg, raged Tom. Dad took his telling off, but secretly he was really pleased with himself and the bond he had established with the Clydesdale mare.

Despite getting into bother with the cart incident, Pat was non the less trusted to do the ploughing. Having ploughed the ‘haugh ablaw the hoose’ he went on to do the sowing using a fiddle sower to scatter the seeds.

“The haugh ablaw the hoose”

“He fiddled and he bowed. The seeds they flew frae side tae side until they aw were sowed.”

Tom was a hard task master and Dad worked from dawn till dusk every day fuelled by a breakfast cooked by Tom’s aunt. She would take a few slices from one of the hams hanging from the rafters and throw it into the biggest frying pan Dad had ever seen. That would cook over the fire and then some eggs from the nest boxes in the kitchen would be added. Fresh milk was available just through the byre door for his porridge.

In 2002 I was dispatched to carry out armed night shift patrols at a top secret military installation in England. The night shifts were 12 hours long and mostly very quiet. To kill the time I started to run through my ideas of how to put the song together relating Dad’s time at Moirlanich. By the end of my two week detachment I had composed the song in my head, rehearsed  singing it as I drove around in my police patrol vehicle, but I had never written any of it down. Back home in Scotland, I typed the lyric out and entered the song into the Edinburgh Folk Club annual Song Writing Competition. To the delight of both my Dad and myself, it won the competition. The song brought me more success at the Killin Folk Festival the following year.

Ewan Sutherland presenting me with the Traditional Singing Trophy at the Killin Folk Festival 2003

It was rather special to win the festival’s singing competition performing the song no more than half a mile from Moirlanich itself.

The song had the ring and feel of a bothy ballad so I entered it at a bothy ballad competition at Auchtermuchty Folk Festival in 2005. The song came up trumps again as the judge, and well known bothy ballad singer Jock Duncan, placed it first. Unbeknown to me, by winning this competition I would be invited to take part in the most prestigious event in the world of bothy ballads, the annual Battle of the Champions at Elgin.

In February 2006, in front of a capacity audience in Elgin Town Hall, I won the Macallan’s Porridge Bowl and Spoon and became Champion of the Bothy Balladeers for that year, all thanks to a wee song about a 15 year old shepherd who went to Moirlanich in the Spring o’ Twenty Eight. It is hard to say who was the prouder that night, myself, or a certain 93 year old retired shepherd who could still picture that bonnie Clydesdale mare as if it were yesterday.

The Macallan’s Porridge Bowl  and Spoon Champion of the Bothy Balladeers 2006

Some years later, I sang the song in Blair Atholl for a group of American tourists. They were on a musical tour of Scotland organised by Ed Miller. When I finished the song, an American lady commented that they had driven up through Fife that day and had seen some Clydesdale horses there. When I enquired where about in Fife, Ed told me the horses were at Collessie. I smiled, and explained to the group that the Clydesdale horse in the song was sold at the end of 1928 to ‘Blacks’ of Newton of Collessie for one hundred guineas as a breeding mare. It was therefor more than likely that some of the horses they had seen in the morning, were direct descendants of the horse they had just heard about in the song. The Americans were amazed and thought that this had all been deliberately organised for their benefit.

Ronnie Black of Newton of Collessie with one of his Clydesdale stallions.

I have my own memories of Tom Proctor. When I was about 6 years old my Aunt Mary and Uncle Davy were going to take my grandfather up to Glen Lochay to visit his old friend Tom, and I got to tag along.

Tom could see my fascination with the hingin’ lum in the kitchen. He asked me if I wanted to know how he swept the chimney. I shyly nodded.

“Well the first thing I do,” he said, “is I light the fire. Then I get my double barrel shotgun and look up the chimney to the sky. Then I wait for a pheasant to fly over the house and I fire both barrels up the chimney. That blows all the soot out, it kills the pheasant and the pheasant drops down the clean chimney and lands on the fire and cooks for my tea.”

At six years old I never doubted a single word.

The hingin’ lum in the kitchen

Click the link below to hear the song.

The Spring o’ Twenty Eight sung at Glenfarg Folk Club

“The Spring o’ Twenty Eight”

 When Tom Procter fell and broke his leg, his ewes were all in lamb

So he sent up tae Glen Artney for tae hire me as his man

For Tom well kent that ewes in lamb just weren’y goin’ tae wait

And that’s why I went tae Moirlanich in the spring o’ twenty-eight

 Noo the first eight miles I walk’t, then I caught the baker’s van

I piled inside amongst the bread, the broon, the plain, the pan

And he dropped me of ootside Killin wi’ a half loaf and a cake

And I walked oot tae Moirlanich in the spring o’ twenty-eight

 Chorus:

Where the hams hung frae the rafters, the swee was over the fire

The hens were in the kitchen and the coos were ben the byre

And the bonniest mare that ever ye saw was standing by the gate

When I landed in at Moirlanich in the spring o’ twenty-eight

 

Well I was just a laddie, only fifteen years of age

But I could dae a day’s hard graft for a pittance o’ a wage

I’d lamb the ewes and twin the lambs from dawn richt through tae late

When I landed in at Moirlanich in the spring o’ twenty-eight

 Well my days were a’ways busy, my days were a’ways fu’

And how I loved tae work the mare when I hitched her tae the ploo

We blackit the haugh abla’ the hoose and man those dreels were straight

When I landed in at Moirlanich in the spring o’ twenty-eight

 Chorus:

 Well I walked up and doon the haugh and I fiddled and I bowed

The seeds they flew frae side tae side until they a’ were sowed

And every nicht I’d groom the mare nae matter how I ached

When I landed in at Moirlanich in the spring o’ twenty-eight

 If ye felt the call o’ nature there weren’y ony loos

Ye just went ben intae the byre and squatted by the coos

But man those days were happy and of that make no mistake

When I landed in at Moirlanich in the spring o’ twenty-eight

 Chorus:

 Well Tom Procter’s leg it mended, and the summer it had come

The crops they a’ were planted and the lambing it was done

So a clapped the heid o’ the bonnie mare as she stood there by the gate

And I bid fareweel tae Moirlanich and the spring o’ twenty-eight

 Chorus:

 Sung to the tune…“If you’ve never been tae Kirrie”

The Tale of the Cormorotterant

The Tale of the Cormorotterant.

In the summer of 2021 my wife and I, along with another couple rented a self-catering holiday cottage on the island of South Uist. It was a first visit to this part of the Outer Hebrides and so there was that mix of anticipation and excitement that comes with the exploration of places new.

The cottage was right down at the southern edge of South Uist with spectacular views across the vivid turquoise waters to the island of Eriskay and also of the causeway that connects the two island communities.

The large lounge was fitted with floor to ceiling windows along the length of its southern and eastern walls, making the most of the wonderful vista and that amazing Hebridean light.

Panoramic views from the lounge

Most mornings, five beautiful Eriskay white ponies would come and pay us a visit. I would raid the fridge of some carrots and go outside to feed them. The most dominant of the ponies was quick to sample what was on offer and eagerly took a piece of carrot from my outstretched hand. Just as quickly, it snorted and spat the carrot out again. The others were not so fussy and appreciated the chance to munch on something other than the rough grasses growing along the shoreline.

Eriskay ponies on the shore

Apart from the ponies, there were always black faced sheep to be seen. The ground sloped away from the cottage to the shoreline about 150 metres below. Several small islands dotted the shore, and at low tide the sheep would cross the mud and move from island to island grazing on the rich green grass fertilized by the droppings of sea birds. The tide would slowly start to flood into the channels between the small islands and the sheep would settle down to chew the cud, stranded until the water once again drained away from the channels and they could move to pastures new.

Sheep resting on an island with Eriskay in the distance

Bird life was abundant. There were masses to be seen, busily going about their lives… redshanks, gulls, shell ducks, oyster catchers, snipe, sanderling, turnstones to name but a few. There was always something to be seen. We had several sightings of golden eagles above the hills to the rear of the cottage. One day a pair of marsh harriers flew past the front of the cottage being mobbed by crows. The most vocal of the birds however was the cuckoo. They were everywhere. We saw them every day and often two or three at a time. Blackbirds, starlings and an assortment of small birds visited the garden daily where we had put out some bird food and fat balls.

On the rocks out in the deeper waters the occasional seal would haul itself out for a bit of sunbathing. Malcolm and I always had our binoculars at the ready and took great enjoyment from watching the great array of wildlife.

One afternoon, Malcolm and I were relaxing and enjoying a light refreshment, or two. I happened to glance out of the huge windows to the shoreline. The usual characters were all there but something caught my eye. A sudden movement behind a large boulder at the water’s edge did not register as something I recognised. Whatever I had seen, it was only the briefest of glimpses, and certainly not enough to identify the creature behind the boulder.

I pointed out to Malcolm where I had seen the mysterious movement. He took another sip of his dram and reached for his binoculars. He focused on the boulder in question, ready to identify the mystery creature. I had another sip of my dram and picked up my binoculars. We both watched intently for any sign of further movement – but nothing.

Time for another sip – and there it was, another fleeting movement. We both locked on to the position of the boulder speculating what might be behind it as we stared through the binoculars. A few more minutes passed and then, there it was, another tantalising movement. It was not even enough to say that we had seen the arching back of an animal, or maybe the crown of a head.

“I think it is an otter.” Malcolm proclaimed confidently.

But I was not sure. I thought that it was more likely that it was a cormorant.

We maintained observations on the boulder but there were no further sightings and eventually we laid the binoculars down and picked up our drams.

We never did find out what was lurking behind that boulder, but I kept wandering which of us was right. Was it an otter, or was it a cormorant?

Then, with the contents of the whisky bottle rapidly diminishing, we amicably agreed that the mystery creature was probably… a ‘Cormorotterant’.